In Khorog (the largest settlement along the Afghan border in the Pamirs) we were lucky to visit the irregular Tajik-Afghan border market on a Saturday. It’s a small market in the military zone at a border crossing where mostly Afghan people offer their goods. It was a rare opportunity to observe Afghanis in their traditional clothes up close. Judging from the very limited things they were selling they must be even poorer than their neighbours on the Tajik side of the river Panj. On we went on adventurous roads along the border and side-tripped into the Bartang valley, a very isolated valley which runs for almost 300 kilometers into the heart of the Pamirs. With our van, we only dared to enter for a few kilometers but were again rewarded with stunning scenery and friendliness of the locals. Back along the border we drove towards Dushanbe, with road conditions improving the closer we got to the capital, and past a monument which remembers the tragic killing of some international cyclists in 2018.